Letter from the editor 

Josh Hamlet 

Whenever I start to talk about my family, I always need props. Preferably a few glasses, a spoon, maybe a potholder and a few toothpicks. Not because they represent the character of those in my family, but because we are all so different and I need some visual aids. I’m visual through and through.

I need these props, these table-top representations, because I have three moms, a dad,  four siblings (two being half-siblings and two being step). My nieces and nephews are about the same ages as my half siblings, and all four of my grandparents are still very much a part of my life. I count myself a lucky man to have such a big (and, strange) family.

And in my non-familial life, I have an even bigger family. Not to sound hoaky or cheesy, but my chosen family is just as big, as strange, as god damn wonderful as any around. From my best friends to new friends to new best friends, I can’t be thankful enough for the love and support I get from each of those who surround me.

Now, with all that sappy stuff aside, I also thoroughly believe that each person in my chosen or given family has influenced how I look at, and cook food. Steak? I’ll always think of my dad marinating steaks for 24 hours when I used to go see him every-other weekend. Chicken and Dumplings? My mom’s wife (aka my Mom aka Nance) would make the best Chicken and dumplings from scratch. She also always had a cup full of gorgeous chopsticks by the stove, as I do today.  Anything vegan -- I almost have to call my childhood best friend in LA anytime I eat something vegan (see: vegan Ricotta... what is that even). And when it comes to plating or atmosphere in a restaurant or hospitality -- I’m on the horn ASAP with Sarah to just digest what in the fresh hell that bartender did to make that old fashioned so …. Poorly. Natural ass wine? Nicolle, you know you’re getting a text bout it.

So when we were thinking about this issue, in my brainstorm of ideas as to what we might write about when it comes to “Family style,” I immediately flew off into what is family and how does your chosen or given family inform your thoughts on food and what recipe will you always remember because of your Dad.

From chosen to given, large or small, a sense of community informs how and possibly why we cook what we cook & eat what we eat. In our 13th issue, Counter Service Explores what it means to eat/drink/cook/share with/for/around family.

XO

JH

Note: Cover Illustration by the immaculate Nancy Pappas, as well as the illustrations for Zoë Laird's Piece, and the cover art for Anna Polonsky's essay.